Keeping it Pencil Thin on Saint-Germain

UPDATE: I just realized I keep getting the name of Montmajour Abbey incorrect. Montmajour Abbey is the correct name. In French it is Abbaye Notre Dame de Montmajour. Wiki it here.

Jesse sublett, blues singer, surrealist, crime writer

Jesse sublett, blues singer, surrealist, crime writer

Clockwise, Lauri, Lois, Jesse, Jake at La Rotonde

Jesse Sublett, crime novelist, blues singer

Me & Karl Lagerfeld, you know, ran into each other & I said, Hey man, you need a black cat like mine, or at the very least, a pencil thin mustache. Well, he met me half way. Cool guy.

So I was walking down the street, singing “Last Kind Words” by Geechie Wiley, which is, like the saddest song in the whole world, in the history of history. It goes like this:

The last kind word I heard my daddy say
Lord the last kind word I heard my daddy say

If I die, if I die in the German War
I want you to send my body, send it to my mother, Lord

If I get killed, if I get killed, please don’t bury my soul
Just leave me out, let the buzzards eat me whole

When you see me comin’, look ‘cross the rich man’s field
If I don’t bring you flour, I’ll bring you bolted meal

I went to the depot, I looked up at the sign
Cry some train don’t come, there’ll be some walkin’ done

My momma told me, just before she died
Lord, Oh precious daughter, don’t you be so wise

The Mississippi River, you know it’s deep and wide
I can stand right here, see my baby from the other side

What you do to me baby, it never gets out of me
I mean I’ll see you, after I cross the deep blue sea

And I ran into that Karl dude, see above. And then back at Hotel Bellechasse, there’s our pals, Jake Riviera and Lauri Riviera, checking in just two minutes after we got there, not unexpected, but a welcome sight, and it means a pleasant evening is in store.

Jesse Sublett, Surrealist, crime novelist, blues singer

Toro Piscine!! Like what it looks like, bullfighting for the kids.

Jesse Sublett, Surrealist, crime novelist, blues singer

Olive Trees, St. Remy d’Provence, first attempt. May Van Gogh & all those guys rest in peace. Don’t get up on my account, OK?

Jesse sublett, blues singer, crime writer

So like what kind of a great predicter of the future was Nostradamus? How did he not predict that we were coming? Bummer. We left a note, will let you know if we find out WTF.

Jesse Sublett, Surrealist, crime novelist, blues singer

Olive trees, St. Remy d’Pce. Second attempt drawing the trees across from the swimming pool at the villa.

Jesse Sublett, Surrealist, crime novelist, blues singer

Philosophie magazine. What timing!! I saw the posters everywhere in Paris & I’m like, How did they know I was coming?

I finished Anne Carson’s Grief Lessons (Four tragedies by Euripides)before we left for Provence, and the images and plots and hysterical, brutal scenes were still ringing in my head, and I’m running into characters from those tragedies in bronze (at Musee Rodin, at Musee d’Orsay, etc.), and then there’s this poster everywhere, for Philosophie magazine, and I just had to buy it. Not just for the guy with the horse head, and just about any time there’s a guy with a horse head, it’s disturbing enough to get my attention, but as it turns out, they’re holding the
23rd World Congress of Philosophy in Athens now. Excellent! If I could I would go, even if all the talk would be over my head. So I bought the magazine and I’m slowly translating the whole thing (it’s in French), with the help of Babelfish. Looks like they’ve got heavy duty articles on Theseus and the Minotaur, Oedipus, and all that great stuff that’s been spooking me out for the past few years or so.

I also bought a couple of graphic novels at the bookstore by Deux Magots, and we went out shopping with the girls (except, now that I think about it, Jake and I would park at a bistro or something and have a couple of drinks while our wives shopped, then when they wanted to move on, we’d find another bar close to the new shopping area). Later that night we ate at La Rotonde, and it was just as good as the last time we ate there, maybe better. Next day we ate at the mother of all brasseries, La Coupole. We ate a lot of places and I took a lot of iPhone pix.

Jesse Sublett, artist, crime writer

The house in St. Remy d’Pce.

Jesse Sublett, artist, crime writer

The cover of the new Fleetwood Cadillac Mac CD by Jesse & Daphne

La Rotonde. Sure, it looks better in person.

La Rotonde. Sure, it looks better in person.

Jesse Sublett, artist, crime writer

Lois, lobby of Hotel Bellechasse, Saint Germain.
Last dinner in Paris we went to Cafe Louis Philippe with Jake & Lauri, with Michael & Linda Moorcock and Martin & Lynn Stone. Michael as you may know is an author and Martin Stone is a musician and rare book dealer. Martin plays with Marianne Faithful and has backed up a good many legendary blues guys. Anyway, it was a superb meal there and it was very funny, this black and white tabby found us soon after we were seated and she made herself at home between Linda and Lynn, parked there the whole time, accepting bites, and when we left, she escorted us downstairs as we bid goodnight. We were just saying that France is the most dog friendly place we’d ever seen, but you know, when you think about it, France is very, very catlike. If you disagree, tough luck, I’m not gonna argue with you because you’re wrong.

[caption id="attachment_5303" align="aligncenter" width="3264"]Jesse Sublett, Surrealist, blues singer, crime writer breakfast at the villa

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Jesse sublett, blues singer, crime writer

library in Marais

Jesse sublett, blues singer, crime writer

Daphne with our chef, who is also a livery driver

Jesse sublett, blues singer, crime writer

on Bellechasse.

Jesse sublett, blues singer, crime writer

Shopping on Saint Germain.

Jesse sublett, blues singer, surrealist, crime writer

view from Abbey, wild white horses

Jesse sublett, blues singer, surrealist, crime writer

Abbey Montemajour

Jesse sublett, grave digger blues, surrealist, crime writer

This gargoyle is the Monster of Tarasco who would eat sinners as they tried to cross the marsh by the Abbey

Jesse sublett, blues singer, surrealist, crime writer

Hey is that a man in your mouth, or what?

Jesse sublett, grave digger blues, surrealist, crime writer

Daphne, resting at the monks’ graveyard at the Abbey

Jesse sublett, blues singer, surrealist, crime writer

Ivan has a bright idea before putting the fish on the grill

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